Lou De Bètoly
A Contemporary Reinvention of Forgotten Treasures
On February 1st, Lou De Bètoly transported Berlin Fashion Week into her world of surreal craftsmanship and playful couture. “It’s classic, surprising, and somehow glamourous” – as she described her latest collection to EDGELINE.AW25 felt like a whispered secret. A delicate yet daring exploration of artistry and reinvention. Staged in the historic Spiegelsaal at Clärchens Ballhaus, the show’s setting was as hauntingly romantic as the collection itself. A lone grand piano stood at the center, casting an air of old-world elegance as models descended the staircase, draped in pieces that blurr the lines between tradition and subversion.
Known for her ability to weave past narratives into modern silhouettes, Bètoly tackled the collection with an almost instinctual process. Backstage, she spoke about her approach to design, the one that doesn’t start with a fixed concept: “I have a very intuitive way of working, almost like a surrealist writer” she shared. “I always start with the material, and then I build a story around it.” The result was an array of garments that embraced both structure and fluidity, nostalgia and irreverence. Vintage nightgowns were painstakingly pleated into weightless gowns, brassieres became architectural bodices, and humble textiles found new form through meticulous craftsmanship.
One of the most striking elements was Bètoly’s ability to disguise the origins of her materials. “I like when you don’t see at first, the upcycling,” she remarked. Indeed, her transformation of everyday objects into high fashion pieces was seamless. “You saw that there were these bike reflectors – I collected them for three years, from my home to work”. While bike reflectors became shimmering halter tops, leather jackets were sliced into cascading ruffles. Vintage silk blanket was reborn as an opulent evening dress and handmade knit pieces incorporate chicken feathers from the designer’s parents' garden, blending personal history with recycled materials.
The collection explored contrasts that create dramatic tension: structured tweed suits juxtaposed with airy, deconstructed silks, tough leather molded into unexpectedly soft shapes. A standout bridal look featured decomposing lace intertwined with crystalline embellishments, walking the fine line between fragility and opulence.
For the French designer, Berlin represents just one of the influences: “This city isn’t as established as others, which leaves space for experimentation,” she explained. “Every district has a different energy. If I had to describe Berlin style, I’d say it’s Matrix mixed with 2000s Paris Hilton.”
AW25 reaffirmed Lou De Bètoly’s reputation as a designer unafraid of pushing boundaries. Through an intricate balance of humor, craftsmanship, and subversion, she continues to challenge the expectations of couture, proving that discarded materials can hold as much allure as the most coveted fabrics. If not more.