The Beauty Rundown: Paris Fashion Week SS27
In a swarm of fashion houses, few seem willing to let beauty truly run wild; others appear almost afraid it might take a bite out of their silhouettes. We looked beyond the safe, the predictable and the polished to find the beauty moments that made us stop scrolling.
MATIÈRES FÉCALES
The clothes alone promised something extraordinary, and the beauty delivered. Matières Fécales continues to push fashion into wonderfully unsettling territory, with a vision that feels entirely its own. Keeping their foot on everybody’s necks, showing what a fashion house in this new age should be about.
MAISON MARGIELA
At Margiela, faces are part of the narrative, moving between the theatrical, and the uncanny.
Here beauty doesn’t simply finish a look, it gives the clothes a life of their own.
PRESSIAT
Diversity, distortion and a willingness to experiment. From full-body makeup to lettering and expressive faces, these looks explore different possibilities without losing their sense of direction. Pressait is what beauty is all about, we’re intrigued and want to know more!
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Less can be more, and Dries shows us exactly that. Styling plays a key role on this runway, with undone hair and simple yet bold makeup choices that feel perfectly considered. Nothing is screaming for attention, yet somehow, everything works.
VAQUERA
A little eccentricity goes a long way. Vaquera’s beauty direction feels right at home in its universe, letting the clothes, styling and attitude do the talking. Not every look needs to reinvent makeup, but that doesn’t mean beauty takes a back seat. Outlandish hair, sculptural shapes, color and glitter touch on eyes and lips - just enough to keep things beyond interesting.
AWGE
Apocalypse afoot might not feel quite so stark when viewed through AWGE’s lens. For SS27, they embrace the absurdity of their own visual language, creating a world where beauty and accessories become extensions of the same idea.
TOM FORD
Staying true to the brand, but keeping things interesting! The beauty feels right at home in the world of the House, with that signature glamour woven into the overall look rather than feeling like an afterthought.
RICK OWENS
You can always count on Rick Owens to give us life. These models aren’t simply wearing clothes; they’re inhabiting characters. The beauty, the attitude, and the overall presence are exactly the world Owens creates. Never just another runway walk, and certainly never a bore.
WEINSANTO
CUNT! Sexy, bold, and unapologetic. Fierce make-up looks meet equally fearless hairstyles, proving that beauty doesn’t have to play second fiddle to fashion. It’s amazing to see how beauty might pull the fashion exactly where it’s supposed to be.
SCHIAPARELLI
Clear-cut, straight to the point. At Schiaparelli, the clothes do much of the talking, showcasing the craftsmanship and sculptural imagination the House is known for. We loved the clarity of the beauty, but couldn’t help thirsting for even more experimentation.
JUNYA WATANABE
Leave it to the hair to take centre stage. The beauty feels like a natural continuation of the collection, reinforcing its identity rather than competing with it. There’s a clear visual language at Junya Watanabe SS27 runway, and every element seems to know its place.
NOIR KEI NINOMIYA
Oh, goodness. YES. Where is the hair? Where is the makeup? Where does one begin and the other end? Noir Kei Ninomiya blurs the boundaries between beauty and fashion, transforming the head into an extension of the collection itself. This is what happens when creativity refuses to fit neatly into a category.
COMME des GARÇONS
LACOSTE
Lacoste wasn’t necessarily the first name we’d expect to see on a list like this, which makes these hair looks all the more satisfying. Unexpected and full of attitude, they bring a welcome dose of eccentricity to a mainstream fashion house. This is the kind of beauty we want to see more of. Don’t hold back, push it even further.
LEAWALD
Pretty in pink, but far from innocent. Pastel hairstyles straight from Tokyo, contradicting the lips and hyper-feminine styling create this doll-like world. Everything is coordinated, exaggerated and unapologetically artificial.
JULIE KEGELS
Falling dresses, falling lashes? The theme carries through to the beauty, with lashes slipping down the face and a long, tied-off ponytail adding to the effect. A rather literal take on the collection’s theme, with a welcome sense of humour.
HODAKOVA
Can't stay awake during fashion week? That's fine, you can always paint your eyes on. Hodakova takes beauty into surreal territory-playful and slightly unsettling.
Words: Milan Bauranov